Stop Brake Noise ... Guaranteed!



Just Follow These Six Steps And Enjoy Quiet, Safer, Longer Lasting Brakes.

 

SIMPLE, FAST AND EASY TO USE PRODUCTS ARE
AVAILABLE FOR BOTH CONSUMERS* & PROFESSIONAL SHOPS

* IF YOU ARE NOT DOING YOUR OWN BRAKE JOB...
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO COPY THE STEPS BELOW, (INCLUDING THE GWR CONTACT INFORMATION) THEN PASS THEM ON TO YOUR LOCAL REPAIR SHOP, SERVICE CENTER OR NEW CAR DEALER SERVICE MANAGER.

 

TIPS and SOLUTIONS
Implementing a complete brake service, using GWR's 6 Step Brake Conditioning System, replacing hardware and thoroughly clean all surfaces... always produces the best results with respects brake noise. On the other hand, for those who recently performed a brake service and now have noise, please call us as there are GWR alternatives for solving this annoying problem and we are happy to be of assistance.
 

TO PRODUCE MAXIMUM, LONG-TERM, EFFECTIVE BRAKE NOISE CONTROL, IT'S CRITICAL YOU FOLLOW THESE O.E.M. RECOMMENDED INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY AS OUTLINED!!!

O.E. APPROVED PROCEDURE:

#1 Start with new rotors or cut the used rotors on a brake finishing lathe using sharp bits and correct feed speeds. As always, best results will be achieved by closely following the set-up and maintenance instructions in the lathe owners manual. (Note: We have found the newer style GWR "Round Lathe Bits" produce consistent, lower RA finishes than standard bits)

#2 Use the new, patented Flexible Hone for Rotors on both friction surfaces of the new or turned rotors, to create and O.E. style cross-hatch. (Note: An angle head, electric drill is highly recommended as it's speed is more constant and rotational torque is virtually eliminated). It only takes about 20 seconds to "re-profile the surface" and create the perfect bedding surface for your new pad. Simply move the spinning tool across the surface (in and out motion) about five times and then make one slow pass from inside to outside, to deliver a final symmetrical pattern. (Note: Contrary to popular belief, laboratory testing has determined sand paper or round discs do not produce the proper rotor finish needed to control (slow down) the burnish of a new pad.)

#3 Thoroughly clean the friction surfaces and hat area of the rotor with GWR Brake-Soap and water solution... using a hand scrub brush. It has been proven in the laboratory that this helps to demagnetize and then remove imbedded micro fine steel particles significantly better than aerosol brake cleaners. When scrubbing is finished, rinse completely with clean water and then air dry.

#4 Spray a very light, even coat of the Silencer - Brake Conditioning Treatment on both sides (friction surfaces) of the rotor. Be sure to shake the can well to completely disperse the solid particles into the synthetic carrier the Silencer treatment uses to deliver them to the rotor. (Notes: You don't need a lot of this product to do the job correctly, only a light single coating of the rotor is necessary. Additionally, no drying time is required before assembly or driving.)

A little freebie tip
... You can spray a light coat of GWR "Silencer" on calipers and the entire rotor, to eliminate rusting in harsh environments or extended winter storage periods.
It will leave a beautiful silver appearance that last for years because it's impervious to water, snow, salt, heat, cold and other conditions. Additionally, it does not get sticky or effect brake action so you don't have to remove it before putting stored vehicles into service each season.

WARNING: Several large packaging companies have attempted to copy the OE Approved "Silencer-Brake Conditioning Treatment" in recent years. What's more interesting is... most came to GWR and ask us to private label the real Silencer for them first. Why? Because it works, it's safe and they did not have the expertise to do it themselves! Unfortunately for the driving public, when we quoted them prices they all said "you're too expensive, we can make it for about a $1 a can!"

Well, they're right! You can make it for $1 a can. If you leave out the real synthetic carrier, leave out the special high pressure synthetic oils, leave out the anti-corrosive agents, leave out the expensive moly powder, leave out the specially shaped particulates of aluminum and graphite, etc, etc.
As you can imagine... these companies did go forward and make their own cheap versions because major profits were anticipated. To reduce the cost, they used petroleum for the carrier and eliminated most of the other important components we include! The question is "can you", the consumer or shop, afford to take a chance on these Non OEM Approved and potentially dangerous brake products when it comes to your own car, or that of your customers?" Worse can you depend on chemical "packaging" companies to be experts in the brake business???

If you are in doubt about a product you are using or are thinking of using, just check the ingredients listed on the label of the can. If you find Mineral Spirits or Stoddard Solvent listed, the product can "not" be used on brake rotors without voiding the new pad warrantee and making them unsafe! Simply stated, "no product other than "the Silencer" is a "Real Synthetic" formulation. All the copies are base on petroleum products and lack the important ingredients that are required to give the long lasting desired results... no brake noise!

You have our word, based on over 30 years in the business in the USA and 75 years in Switzerland, none of the copies are even close to our original Silencer product! Neither do they share the national and international awards, accolades, O.E.M. endorsements or safety level. If you have been told any other brake conditioner is equal to or better than Silencer... please call GWR and let us know. We would like to tell you the whole story and explain the real difference between the original and the copies. Additionally, we'll show you why there are safety issues involved that "will" affect you personally. Thanks, GWR

#5 Apply Pastelub-2400 Extreme Hi-Temp Synthetic Dry-film Lubricant to caliper mounting brackets, mounting bolt threads, the rust free hat area at center of rotor (thoroughly clean before turning if any rust is present) and any other metal to metal contact points. Next, coat caliper piston face (where pad backing plate contact occurs) and or the back of the brake pad, along with any other points of contact (guide ears, etc) with Ceramlub-2800 Ultra Hi-Temp Synthetic Dry-film Lubricant (Note: Do not use low temp moly style greases (300 to 600) or any type silicone (maximum of 400) for any of these applications as they will break down with heat and pressure and generally cause contamination of friction surfaces during this change. Note that the revolutionary Ceramlub lubricant is far superior to all silicone type lube products commonly used on slide pins, etc, based on it 2800 temperature rating and real synthetic formula.

#6 Assemble per recommended O.E. procedures, using new brake hardware, then test drive the vehicle. VERY IMPORTANT: Initially make about 20 to 30 ultra light pedal "slow downs" from 30 mph to 5 mph but do not completely "stop" the vehicle. Next make 20 to 30 "full stops" from 30 mph but not panic style. Be sure to allow about 1 to 2 minutes for cool down between each slowing or stopping cycle. This is critical because it allows the rotors and pads to adjust to each other and for embedded temperature increases to bleed off. This break in procedure may seem extreme to some technician, but this is the "only" way to properly burnish a new set of pads to a rotor... intense dyno and road testing has proven it. (Be sure to tell customers no panic stops for at least 300 miles, the average "real burnish period".

This light and then heavier stopping procedure, properly burnishes the Silencer's micro-fine particles into the friction surfaces and conditions (softens) the burnish process. The goal is to slow down the burnish and control the pressures and higher burnish temperatures new pads are exposed to, for the longest period of time. The hotter and harder a pad is pushed during its break in period (post cure) the harder it becomes (shore) and therefore the worse the performance. There are several laboratory measurements in our industry, including FEI (Friction Energy Index), Coefficient of Friction, D3EA, (Multi Variable Dyno Evaluation), BEEP (Brake Effectiveness Evaluation Procedure), Torque, etc. used to determine friction performance. By using GWR's five steps and products, you will improve a vehicles test numbers by up to 8%. This proves to be not only a better feeling, noise free pad but the vehicle actually stops shorter and is safer.


 

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For More information please call

1(800) 266-4497

or
Send email to: sales@GWRauto.com


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